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Tammy Sue At Moss

graph a 1930s cuff | diy

graph a 1930s cuff: drawing out sewing patterns instead of printing

This article is a walk through of charting or graphing patterns. this one is a 1930s cuff diy. save electricity & draw out your pieces onto paper while getting accustomed to flat shapes.

The cuff is very cute. a dainty ruffle trimmed, tied version from 1930. it is a simple thing to draw out yourself by making a graph or chart of coordinates and connecting the dots.

finished 1930s rule cuff diy
Draw out your own pattern for a 1930s tie cuff with ruffle trim. the top left illustration shows the picot hemstitched version while the illustration below shows the faced version. perfect for sheer & lightweight cottons or silks.
difficulty level: EASYdecade: 1930size: ADULTS
season: AW & SSarticle: DIYtype: ACCESSORY

how to graph your 1930s cuff pattern

makes (2) 1/2 pattern pieces

1.5cm seam allowance included

what you will need

  • A4 or Letterhead sheet of paper
  • pencil & eraser
  • ruler
  • drawing triangle
  • paper scissors
  • colored pen (optional)
draw out your oieces on an A4 sheet of paper
There are two pieces to this pattern. both are drawn out as half patterns and should be cut -out on the fold. the cuff is self-fabric faced, while the ruffle is folded horizontally in half to finish.

method

first draw out a rectangle the required size on your sheet of paper, then add your verticle and any horizontal lines you might need. thirdly mark points at the coordinates listed, then join the points to shape your pattern and finally add the name & size of pattern piece, as well as any markings you might need for the construction.

tips

  • draw out precise corners & smooth lines
  • remember to mark the edge that will be on the fold of fabric
  • the seam allowance of 1.5cm is included in the pattern
  • drawing over your pattern in coloured ink will make it easier to cut-out.
the lines are all verticle for this 1/2 piece pattern, measurements start at top of each line.

draw out your lines

using a drawing triangle create a 24cm x 14cm rectangle with 45 degree corners for the body. make sure your corners are accurate by remeasuring all your lines. Draw out your verticle lines starting at the left top corner. mark the left line of rectangle A, from this point measure out 1,5cm and draw your line B – you can use your drawing triangle for accurate lines or measure out both top & bottom lines for accuracy. measure out all additional lines starting from corner A.

mark your points

For A measure down 9cm and mark with a point, this is the farthest edge of pattern tie. Mark all the points, before moving on to the next step.

Note: the first point on the line has a 1 behind the line letter, the second point has a 2. all measurements start from the top of line.

connect the dots

the dots will define if it’s a curve or straight line. draw lines smoothly with the help of ruler and tailors square.

add any markings

remember to mark out any info you will need for future use, such as seam allowance, size measurements and construction details. on the bottom edge mark where line E is, this is the point of attachment to sleeve. this area is 21cm wide. your sleeve opening needs to be at least 21cm wide to fit.

check the piece

cut piece out with scissors & test your pattern on scrap material. lay pattern piece on material, holding the piece in place with weights – mark out the outline onto fabric, cut-out & check the form. If your pattern needs alterations, redraw it on a new sheet of paper.

choose your material

pick a similar fabric type & weight or lighter than main material, this ensures a soft, fitting cuff. if you have a silk crepe dress you can use silk crepe or silk chiffon for the cuffs, for example. you will need a prewashed piece of material 34cmx96cm for a pair.

material 1930s rufle cuff diy
fine silks, cottons & linens are great for these cuffs.

how to sew

what you will need

  • your chosen material, cut out
  • needle
  • thread to match material
  • bee wax (optional)

The design requires picot hemming but you can easily sew these by hand with a needle and thread.

tammy sue steffens
how to sew a 1930s cuff
The original instructions suggest that you create a picot hem. a machine makes the hemstitch. 
you cut through the hemstitch to form a type of tiny scallop edging.
For one cuff, cut out 2 pieces with your main pattern & 1 piece for your rufffle. fold your ruffle piece in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch edges closed along the 1.5cm seam allowance, then trim to 7mm and turn, press. gather your ruffle piece 1cm from raw edge, by stitching two rows of running stitches knotted at one end & longer loose ends at the other for pulling up gathers.

stitching by hand

since most of us don’t have a hemstitching machine, the best way to finish the cuffs would be a double-cut or self-fabric faced version. cut out the body piece double, stitching right sides together, then turning & finishing .

cut out each cuff piece double. Cut the ruffle single. fold the ruffle piece horizontally & gather to make a ruffle. baste the ruffle onto the right side of the cuff, lay the facing right side down and stitch around the piece between E points, leaving an opening for turning. trim seam allowance, for a dainty appearance, before turning to finish.

Trim seam allowance to half its size before turning & finishing cuff.
finishing

after turning, press your cuff. Slip stitch the remaining opening closed. because the cuff is meant to be removed for washing, it is normally slip stitched to the end of the sleeve. TO attach to sleeve: after tying your bow, slip cuff over sleeve aligning edges and slip stitch with tiny stitches to front part of sleeve from point E to point E (revsion 01: attach approximately 3cm in, from point E. this will give the cuff a softer look.

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