Measuring is the key to success when working with vintage sewing patterns. Along with the Information below, there are three tips for measuring that make a difference in home sewing projects. 1. Wear the shoes you normally wear when getting measured, 2. wear the undergarments you will wear with the outfit, and finally, 3. check your measurements before each new sewing project.
The following article will show you the measurements preferred by Vogue for their sewing patterns in the mid 1920s. These measurements are still useful today, especially regarding pattern adjustments & alterations.
In the Vogue Manner
If there is any marked difference between your measurements and the pattern you intend using, study the diagrams on the following pages before you cut your goods. Order your pattern by bust measure, unless the hips are disproportionately large; in which case, order by hip measurement and alter accordingly. Do not try to measure yourself. Be measured in the Vogue dept. of your favourite shop, if possible. If you must order by mail, ask some one to help you. The tape should be drawn closely, but not tightly strained, when you are measured around neck and around arms; also at waist-line and hip-line. The bust measure should be taken with the tape held less closely.1
Front View fig A
- 1. Bust: Place tape measure over fullest part of bust, higher in back, as indicated in figures A and B.
- 2. Waist: Place tape measure around body at smallest part of figure.
- 3. Hip: Place tape measure around hips 8 inches below waistline – do not allow tape measure to slip up or down. I would also measure the widest part under the waist & the length from waist point!.
- 4. Neck: Place tape measure around, as indicated in figures A and B.
- 5. Length of shoulder: Take this measurement at right shoulder from neck to armhole. See figure A.
- 6. Width of chest: Take this measurement across chest 4 1/4 inches below neck. See figure A. (armhole to armhole)
- 8A to 8B. Centre front length to floor: Take this measurement from natural waistline to floor – from 8A to 8B, figure A.
- 9A to 9B. Length over right hip to floor: Take this measurement from natural waistline to floor – from 9A to 9B. figure A.
- 12. Skirt length: Take this measurement at centre from natural waistline to whatever length is desired.
- 13A to 13B. Front arm length from top of shoulder to wrist.
Front View Measurements: Bust, Waist & Hip are classics, I believe 7″ is used for miss sizes and 8″ for women sizes, but your actual hip width determines the fit. If you are bigger above or below these measurements, note these numbers. The length from waist to floor (8) is a good one for midi & evening length skirts or coat styles. Arm length (13) is great for long and extra long sleeves, as well as structural cuffs or flounces.