what you like
To sew your own vintage, it’s advisable to map out what you would like. Before you purchase a pattern, you should know what you would generally like to recreate. Gather inspiration from old movies, vintage magazines, vintage shops & museum pieces. You can also check modern & antique designs for inspiration.
If you are sewing for you, it’s a good idea to:
- check your wardrobe
- check your measurements
- check your bank account
vintage sewing patterns
Vintage sewing patterns are everywhere, some original, some copies. If you buy a copy, you lose the nostalgia factor. If you purchase an original, you risk purchasing an incomplete or unuseable pattern. Some have tiny pieces missing, others have different pieces mixed in, some are dry & brittle (with some humidity theses pieces can be brought back to life) & still others have 1 or 2 main pieces gone forever.
I hope these tips can help you make a piece of art you cherish.
shop patterns
I sell original vintage sewing patterns here and in my etsy shop “TammySueAtMoss”. These are checked for useability and missing pieces are redrawn, when needed. I also make digital copies of brittle envelopes or instruction sheets. If you purchase a pattern from me, you will be able to recreate it
a pattern is chosen
You love 40s style and would really like a summer jacket made of linen or cotton, so you purchased a suit pattern and will be making the jacket. Your inspiration board has red stripes, seersucker and green styles. Your wardrobe has a lot of dark colours, but you would like something more fresh, more like spring.
check the size
Vintage patterns are one-offs getting the right size is really seldom. All patterns should be resized, even if it’s just for length. For this example, your measurements & the patterns measurements are slightly different. This means a pattern alteration needs to happen.
| AREA | YOU | PATTERN |
|---|---|---|
| bust | 32″ | 32″ |
| waist | 27.5″ | 26.5″ |
| hip | 35″ | 35″ |
adjust the pattern
Remeber to also check shoulder length, neck to waist & waist to peplum hem measurements before resizing. You can see the necessary alteratins for the 1″ waist increase. The half pattern (P) is increased by 1/2″. Simply cut and add this amount; since you cut double, you have a full inch increase. The remaining jacket pieces are altered at the waist only. They are split from bottom of piece to top or for peplum top edge to bottom. (leave top edge on G & F attached – bottom edge remains attached for M & L) The remaining pieces are 1/4 pieces, you will need to add 1/4 of the amount or 1/4″ to each piece at the waist.
Please watch the silhouette. You can think about alternatives to adding fullness at the side seams. If you had darts, you could reduce the depth to increase the waist!
material
The original inspiration was a red or pink stripe, this is generally good for blues, beige, white, reds, some oranges & pinks. The search for material begins. The priority goes red or pink color, a cotton or linen stripe, lastly a mélange or structured material. When you think you have found the right material, always ask for a sample – to be certain.
For this jacket, a 150g woven cotton or linen stripe or a seersucker would be perfect.
prep the project
The pattern is ready. You’ve found your material. Now you just need to find all your necessary notions & test the techniques. Decide on any embellishments before cutting into your material. Use the material you choose to your advantage. For example, stripes are nice when placed in different directions, smocking or tucks can look good instead of gathers and top-stitching is also interesting.
OTHER EXAMPLES OF ADVANTAGEOUS MATERIAL USE
- Soft lightweight cotton loves gathers; layering; ruffle or lace trim & metallic embroidery.
- A crisp poplin loves fine, bound edges; self-covered buttons; tiny tucks & shaped hems.
- Wool jersey loves soft pleats; draping; layering; close fit; tapering fullness & color blocking.
things to consider
- I would recommend making a muslin, to test the fit.
- Purchase the best material & notions you can afford.
- Take the time to add detailing, this will makes the piece look very vintage.
- Finally, consider the material & use it to your advantage when planning details.
- Be open to different fabrics, just remember to order a swatch before purchasing.